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Runa
On-line version ISSN 1851-9628
Abstract
MORA SILVA, Julimar. The "ethnic thing" is fashionable: Performativity, criticism and agency around the Indoamerican discourse in Vogue (2000-2017). Runa [online]. 2018, vol.39, n.2, pp.91-116. ISSN 1851-9628.
This article presents a set of reflections about the representation assigned to the American Indian in the collections and brands of the high fashion present in the fashion weeks from the Vogue web portal. For this, the visual and written contents were analyzed in a double dimension: aesthetic and symbolic, evidencing the transmission of old in "new" forms of expression. Likewise, cases where these discourses and performances revived the claim of ethnic groups that criticized speeches and appropriations of styles in the performances about them are discussed. The analysis of the contents gave an account of the development of contradictions at all levels, from the aesthetic associated with clothing and body performance, to the political one anchored to the disputes over the right to property and identity associated with certain markers of ethnicity.
Keywords : Fashion; Ethnic; Performativity; Agency; Criticism.