Resumen

GUERSHMAN, Bárbara. Marcas de shopping o de diseñador. Los procesos de adscripción en la moda. Cuad. Cent. Estud. Diseñ. Comun., Ensayos [online]. 2019, n.71, pp.123-137. ISSN 1853-3523.  http://dx.doi.org/10.18682/cdc.vi71.1072.

The goal of this article is to understand the development of social process identification. These dynamics are based on the way a group of clothing producers (garment, footwear and accessories) participate in biannual fashion events and exhibitions. This works builds upon my ethnographic fieldwork for my Phd thesis. Precisely during my fieldwork I noticed the relevance of two categories: brand and designer. These categories related to the way producers publicly identify among themselves. This identification is associated to the number of garments that conforms the season collection. Besides it is related to the social spaces where producers commercialize the garments and also to the moral imputations about the often-called copia. The copia presumably expresses more or less, the influence of global fashion trends. The producers recognized as designers would like to remain isolated for these trends. On the other hand, their collections include less garment that the brand´s collections. In addition, brands typically sell in shopping, mall located throughout CABA and the metropolitan area. But this distinction is questioned in several contexts, leading to the articulation between the categories of brand and designer. The present article describes this articulation.

Palabras clave : design; fashion; clothing; production; commercialization.

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