Resumo

PITE, Rebekah E. Raza y etnicidad en la cocina argentina: una historia de la cocina criolla y de Doña Petrona. Apunt. investig. CECYP [online]. 2012, n.22. ISSN 1851-9814.

This article considers the links between food and racial identity in twentieth-century Argentina. While the small numbers of Argentine food histories that exist often explore the ethnic backgrounds of particular foods or the people who made them, race has not been a topic of analysis. Still, taken together, Argentine food histories demonstrate that it was often people from distinct ethnic and racial traditions, many of them non-European, who played a leading role in creating and preparing food. Among the most influential was Doña Petrona C. de Gan-dulfo, a woman from Santiago del Estero who claimed French training, European and indigenous heritage, and Argentina's bestselling cookbook. By tracing shifting definitions of what counted as Argentina's national cuisine over the course of the twentieth century, this paper seeks to unpack the racial and ethnic undertones of the shifting meanings of "la cocina criolla" (or creole cooking) in Argentina.

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